Zafira alarm - pane sensor problems

Discussion in 'Zafira' started by Mike J, Oct 26, 2004.

  1. Mike J

    Mike J Guest

    FYI,

    I may have finally cured the pane sensor fault at almost zero cost, although
    others may not agree it is actually a cure :)

    I had the tech2 diagnosis and it showed up multiple pane breakages - which
    obviously never happened. I then asked for a repair costing and got 100 quid
    per pane and around 2.5 hrs labour, which came to a max of 400 quid!!

    Given this, and the fact that I have access to the TIS, I decided to have a
    go myself, here is the 'quickest' way:

    0) if you follow this information, it is at your own risk, N.B, E&OE; go to
    a dealer if you are not sure what to do!!!!

    1) remove rearmost roof panel - the one with the interior light. To do this,
    remove the light by hand and detach wiring, adjust tailgate weather strip
    and gently pull down panel until you can see some metal clips - using a long
    screwdriver unclip them one by one - make sure you lever against the
    metalwork rather than the trim otherwise you may force the clip out of the
    plastic trim. Once you have all 8 out, the trim can be unlocated from a
    simple slot system. Once the panel is off, you can see how all the other
    clips will work. It maybe possible that brute force is OK and you can just
    heave the panels off, but this is a car I want to keep :)

    2) now remove the D-pillar trim, the bit that has the upper seat belt guide
    for the rearmost seats. To do this remove the seat belt bolt and then adjust
    the tailgate weather strip and gently pull away the trim until you see the
    retaining clips - 6 in all. Once all unclipped, the trim can be manoeuvered
    off - note the way it clips into the upper C pillar trim.

    3) now remove the upper C-pillar trim, the bit that has the upper seat belt
    guide for the middle passenger seats. To do this you can seem to get away
    with brute force as there are only 2 clips at the top - force applied at the
    top only. The trim will topple down and slide down the seat belt out of the
    way.

    4) now release (not remove) the top of the rear quarter panel, the bit below
    the offending window. To do this remove the 6 screws (count them!). Once
    this is done, there are only 2 clips under the window to release (brute
    force?) to enable access to the offending electrical connections to the pane
    sensor - tug away although note that not all clips are removed as you only
    want the minimum access and hassle.

    Here is the controversial bit - I made up a short bit of wire with 2 spade
    terminals and joined the pane break sensor wires together completely
    bypassing the window!

    My thoughts on this are:

    1) the pane sensor is superfluous when my car has an ultrasonic sensor,
    2) the alarm system thinks that a zero resistance is an OK situation
    3) the alarm system thinks that an open circuit is an error - 10 secs
    flashing light on hazard switch when alarm set.
    4) the alarm system thinks the original pane resistances were OK

    Discuss?


    Refitting is reversal of removal, although:

    1) confirm that clips are secure on panels before pushing them in

    2) note that the forward screw on the lower rear panel has a locating finger
    nearby that must locate in the metal work before the trim can be refitted

    3) seat belt bolts must have bolt locking compound applied

    4) C-pillar trim has to be aligned so that the seatbelt adjuster works
    properly - I took 2-3 goes getting the trim part to line up with the
    seatbelt adjusting mechanism

    5) if it won't clip back in, something is misaligned - be gentle

    6) note all the little slots and fingers that the panels use to align
    themselves with one another

    7) adjust weather strips around all trims that were moved

    8) it took me 2 hours to bypass both panes.


    BTW, one pane had a resistance of 50 ohms and the other (my initial choice
    as the faulty one) was 200 ohms.

    Will it stop the alarm going off at 3 in the morning ....... time will tell.

    HTHs,
    Mike J.
     
    Mike J, Oct 26, 2004
    #1
  2. Mike J

    Guest Guest

    Good bodge?. I must admit that I would have attempted to clean up
    (Servisol Contact Cleaner) the offending contacts. *BUT* I would have
    added a bypass switch for each side so that I could short out and
    isolate each sensor. That way I could identify which has gone faulty
    (half the dismantling) and switch it out until I could attack it again.
    Dave
     
    Guest, Oct 26, 2004
    #2
  3. I agree that the what you have done is a sensible 'bodge' but the pane break
    sensor is there because the ultrasonic sensors do not reach the back of
    longer cars that well. That is why Vauxhall estates and MPVs have them.
    Having said that, I would be willing to risk it as well!

    --


    Alan Steele

    Steeles of Worthing
    www.steeles.co.uk
     
    Alan Steele - Steeles of Worthing, Oct 28, 2004
    #3
  4. Mike J

    Mike J Guest

    I agree that the what you have done is a sensible 'bodge' but the pane
    I guess that is the reason, but I then fail to understand why the tailgate
    window is not similarily protected. Having the original windows should still
    have a deterent affect though, and the CD, glovebox and car are still
    protected to a high level.
    Thanks for the reassurance; 400 quid for a cure that may fail again in 4
    years time is just too much money.

    No alarms for 2 days and nights...

    Mike J
     
    Mike J, Oct 28, 2004
    #4
  5. I think the tailgate is protected via the heated rear window circuit.

    --


    Alan Steele

    Steeles of Worthing
    www.steeles.co.uk
     
    Alan Steele - Steeles of Worthing, Oct 28, 2004
    #5
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