Want to buy an Omega Elite

Hi Folks

I am hoping to pick some brains here.
I want to buy a Omega Elite but don't know what to go for ! Which is the
best engine 3.0Ltr or 2.5? What should I look for in the way of problem
areas?
I know some had a problem with head gaskets, are they ok when repaired ?
What about rocker cover gaskets? are they difficult to do and or expensive?
Ant areas prone to rust?
That just the potential problems I know about. Is there any other nasty
potential surprises lurking in that smooth looking car?
Any help would be appreciated. As I have to get one soon. I have sold my car
and am without transport at the moment!
Thanks in advance for all your help. It is really useful to learn from other
peoples experiences.
And maybe one day I will be able to do the same for someone else.
Kind regards
Jeff Warren

 

Well I've only owned 1 Omega V6 ( plus two 2 litres), but here's my
thoughts anyway:-

1) Whatever you buy it's going to be a big, relatively complicated car
with lots and lots of bits to go wrong, and cars don't get younger as
you own them. You won't run it for years on loose change: having said
that I'd rather keep old cars running then lose ££££s on a newer
Eurobox in depreciation.

2) I went from a carlton CDX 3.0 12v estate to a 2.5 V6 Omega estate
( both with manual boxes); the Omega seemed much slower, although I'm
no 'boy racer'. So if you want a quick car go for the 3 litre.

3) The 3 litre is more expensive to fix if it breaks, for example IIRC
the valves on the 3 litre are silicon filled & 60 quid each, so
valve bending gets even more expensive. There are other bits that are
3 litre specific , an electric auxiliary coolant pump for example.

4) One problem that does seem to be common on older V6s is the oil
cooler that sits in the middle of the 'V' breaking down, leading to
oil / coolant mix. This is £££s to fix unless you can DIY.

5) Like all Omegas the dual layer front suspension bushes wear leading
to tramlining, wose on the low profiles the V6s use; it is ciritical,
if you want to fix the problem, that OEM bushes are used and the
suspension is set up properly afterwards. Check very carefully for
uneven tyre wear on any car you look at.

6) Yes the cam covers leak, filling the spark plug holes with hot oil.
It cost me 200 quid to get this fixed on my V6, it is essential that
the crankcase breathers are unblocked at the same time , or the
problem will happen again as pressure builds up under the covers,
which are prone to warping on earlier models.

7) I've not seen an Omega with significant rust, my current 180,000
mile N plate has cosmetic rust round the edges of the doors now.

8) HT leads are supposed to last 100K, so if you're looking at a leggy
one then bear in mind OEM leads are just under 200 quid for a set, and
they are a pain to fit on the V6 unless you're into keyhole surgery. I
believe you can get cheaper leads from the likes of autovaux now, not
sur eif they're any good or not.

9) For peace of mind make 100% sure the cambelt AND tensioners and
idler pulleys have been changed every 40K.

That's probably enough for now, I liek them and I'll buy another,
butlike I said don't expect to run it for next to nothing, obviously
it helps if you can DIY most of the spanner stuff.

 

I've seen lots of head gasket failure omegas on ebay and I've been
tempted but then put off by potential problems. This would be for a
cheap and nasty second/third car so I wouldn't want to be spending
money on it. So, I keep my old Carlton with safe 8v 2.0 engine, no
cat etc.

 

(original post snipped ...)

Well I've only owned 1 Omega V6 ( plus two 2 litres), but here's my
thoughts anyway:-

1) Whatever you buy it's going to be a big, relatively complicated car
with lots and lots of bits to go wrong, and cars don't get younger as
you own them. You won't run it for years on loose change: having said
that I'd rather keep old cars running then lose ££££s on a newer
Eurobox in depreciation.

2) I went from a carlton CDX 3.0 12v estate to a 2.5 V6 Omega estate
( both with manual boxes); the Omega seemed much slower, although I'm
no 'boy racer'. So if you want a quick car go for the 3 litre.

3) The 3 litre is more expensive to fix if it breaks, for example IIRC
the valves on the 3 litre are silicon filled & 60 quid each, so
valve bending gets even more expensive. There are other bits that are
3 litre specific , an electric auxiliary coolant pump for example.

4) One problem that does seem to be common on older V6s is the oil
cooler that sits in the middle of the 'V' breaking down, leading to
oil / coolant mix. This is £££s to fix unless you can DIY.

5) Like all Omegas the dual layer front suspension bushes wear leading
to tramlining, wose on the low profiles the V6s use; it is ciritical,
if you want to fix the problem, that OEM bushes are used and the
suspension is set up properly afterwards. Check very carefully for
uneven tyre wear on any car you look at.

6) Yes the cam covers leak, filling the spark plug holes with hot oil.
It cost me 200 quid to get this fixed on my V6, it is essential that
the crankcase breathers are unblocked at the same time , or the
problem will happen again as pressure builds up under the covers,
which are prone to warping on earlier models.

7) I've not seen an Omega with significant rust, my current 180,000
mile N plate has cosmetic rust round the edges of the doors now.

8) HT leads are supposed to last 100K, so if you're looking at a leggy
one then bear in mind OEM leads are just under 200 quid for a set, and
they are a pain to fit on the V6 unless you're into keyhole surgery. I
believe you can get cheaper leads from the likes of autovaux now, not
sur eif they're any good or not.

9) For peace of mind make 100% sure the cambelt AND tensioners and
idler pulleys have been changed every 40K.

That's probably enough for now, I liek them and I'll buy another,
butlike I said don't expect to run it for next to nothing, obviously
it helps if you can DIY most of the spanner stuff.

I've had two 2.5 V6 Omega estates (both autos) - the first, on an 'M' plate
gave little trouble but was over-geared. The final drive ratio was lowered
on the later model and the performance is much 'perkier' as a result.

The second (and current, on an 'R' plate) has suffered all the "standard"
problems outlined above, and been successfully cured (at a price!) It's
currently in the menders having leaky oil seals (all three of them) on the
diff replaced, and also the oil seal on the transmission output shaft. With
the new exhaust system that was fitted on Monday, I'll have spent almost
£1000 on it this week :-( That's probably half the car's current value so
it's a lot to spend on it, but it's only done 88,000 miles, so I think by
getting all this stuff fixed now, I should be ok for a few years more. It's
in good condition cosmetically and it's a fast, comfortable drive, with
loads of room in the back, so I hope to keep it going as long as I can. The
next big expense, I fear, will be the second cambelt change (groan) but it's
gotta be done.

The local Police retire them at 150K 'cos "that's when they start getting
expensive to mantain" the fleet manager has said .... he must have a
different idea of "expensive" !!

 

So, I keep my old Carlton with safe 8v 2.0 engine, no

Well they did make a few Omegas in the early years with that engine,
although, given the less than rocket ship performance of my 2.0 16v
Omega, I should think they're a tad slow. That 8v engine was my
favourite in terms of robustness / cheap to fix.

 

That actually sounds about right, my afromentioned V6 had 167k on the
clock when I chopped it in, it was starting to get too expensive. Nice
to drive than my current 2 litres though; but only did about 22 mpg
around town and 30 mixed, compared with 29 and 37 respectively for the
2 litre.

 

They're not fast, but the Carlton pulls remarkably well when loaded
up.