Vauxhall Cavalier Mk3 Camshaft Sensor

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by ARNK, Aug 2, 2005.

  1. ARNK

    ARNK Guest

    Re: 2.0l 1995 Cavalier with the X20XEV ecotec 16v engine (badge in grill
    version)

    After cleaning my Idle Air Control valve out yet again I am still getting
    the engine warning coming light on (most of the time, especially hot days).
    I pulled the code 92 with the trusty paperclip which states that it is an
    "incorrect signal from the camshaft sensor". I have found that by
    restarting the engine once it is warm that I can make it go away and then
    rev above 4500 rpm. The Haynes manual that I have states that the camshaft
    sensor is located "on the end of the cylinder head in the position normally
    occupied by the distributor". Since I have no distributor please can
    somebody point me to a picture of where this sensor is located on the ecotec
    engine. A search of ebay suggests that the camshaft sensor that I need is
    the new modified (bigger hole) part no 93171450 but there are only old
    90458252 ones for sale just now. I expect that my sensor is fine and its
    the wiring that's gone, but until I can locate it I can't check that out.
    Can I buy just the clip on lead for the sensor?

    Also the warm air intake shield over the exhaust manifold has rusted so that
    the bottom support has come loose and is rattling while the top mounting
    star? bolts look rusted. If I try to undo them they are bound to shear off.
    The rattling is annoying, but from the noise the exhaust manifold could be
    leaking too. Any tips for a repair?

    Thanks
    Al
     
    ARNK, Aug 2, 2005
    #1
  2. ARNK

    Mike Dodd Guest

    Mine did that.

    Tried finding a replacement in the scrappers, to no avail (either
    already robbed, or already rotten).

    In the end I crafted a new piece - cut an area of tin-plate from an old
    "Roses" tin, and pop-riveted sections over what remained of the old
    intake shield. lasted a couple of years, at least until I scrapped the
    car, was a cheap and effective "repair".
     
    Mike Dodd, Aug 2, 2005
    #2
  3. ARNK

    Mike Dodd Guest

    Actually, in the cold light of day... 'twas thin alu plate that the GF
    obtained from work... I think the roses solution didn't last too long.
    Just a couple of pairs of pliers, formed an approximate profile and
    pop-riveted that in place. As above - lasted a couple of years or so and
    was going strong when the car was laid to rest.
     
    Mike Dodd, Aug 2, 2005
    #3
  4. ARNK

    me140 Guest

    Isn't your sensor sat between the cam puleys?
    Most motor factors do them.
     
    me140, Aug 2, 2005
    #4
  5. ARNK

    ARNK Guest

    Also the warm air intake shield over the exhaust manifold has rusted
    Thanks for the tip Mike - I will get the tin snips out at the weekend -
    shame a beer can won't be strong enough.
    Al
     
    ARNK, Aug 2, 2005
    #5
  6. ARNK

    ARNK Guest

    I don't remember seeing it when I changed the cam belt last year - can't
    make it out it in the Haynes pictures.
    Probably staring me in the face.
    Thanks
    Al
     
    ARNK, Aug 2, 2005
    #6
  7. ARNK

    Rock Guest

    Code 92 can also be caused by a bad earth. Even though the code is not
    linked to an earthing problem, we have seen this on a number of earlier
    cavs.
    With the engine running, do a wiggle test on the wiring under the engine bay
    (not just the cam sensor wiring), and see if this causes the engine to cut.
     
    Rock, Aug 2, 2005
    #7
  8. ARNK

    airsmoothed Guest

    As me140 states the cam sensor on the X20XEV sits between the cam
    pulleys at the top of the engine - at least it does on an Omega,
    shouldn't think it's any different on a Cav.; apart from the engine
    pointing sideways;-) Sounds like the haynes manual is refering to the
    8v engine..
     
    airsmoothed, Aug 5, 2005
    #8
  9. ARNK

    ARNK Guest

    Thanks for the tip - you were correct! Found the sensor connection under
    the plastic Ecotec panel on the drivers side. Guess the sensor itself is
    removed from the cam pulley side. Not sure where the other end of the
    sensor wire connects to - it disappears off under the inlet manifold
    somewhere. Hope to have a better look tomorrow.

    Managed to remove the rattling warm air shield over the exhaust manifold so
    the bolts were not seized luckily. The bottom has rotted away and the
    supporting strap that used to attach to the exhaust manifold has come away.
    Not sure how it was originally mounted - plan to go and hunt around the
    scrapyard tomorrow to find a replacement.

    Al
     
    ARNK, Aug 6, 2005
    #9
  10. ARNK

    me140 Guest

    Loom plugs directly onto the sensor - Vauxhall have modified them now so you
    need to do a bit of soldering when you fit a new sensor / harness.
     
    me140, Aug 6, 2005
    #10
  11. ARNK

    airsmoothed Guest

    Yes you need to take the cam belt cover off to access the business end
    of the cam sensor, bit of afiddle on these engine compared with the
    older stuff
     
    airsmoothed, Aug 6, 2005
    #11
  12. ARNK

    ARNK Guest

    Thanks to everybody for the helpful tips. Job done today - parts were £10
    from the scrapyard and taken from a 1.8l Vectra. Here is a summary for the
    future in case anybody else has the same problem.

    Replacing the camshaft sensor on a 1995 Cavalier (also Vectra etc) 2.0l
    Ecotec engine
    (Fault code 92 "Incorrect signal from camshaft sensor")

    1. Remove plastic Ecotec panel on top of engine - 2 off 5mm allen bolts.
    Camshaft sensor is on left end (timing belt end).
    2. Disconnect air inlet pipe at one of the jubilee clip joints.
    3. Remove air filter cover - 2 spring clips and 2 philips screws. Lift off
    top and air filter element.
    4. Remove air filter base - loosen 3 10mm fixings and lift off. Air inlet
    is slotted into plastic pipe under the headlamp and it might be a bit
    awkward.
    5. Take serpentine belt off alternator pulley - slacken by turning tensioner
    pulley bolt clockwise with 15mm spannner.
    6. Remove timing cover - 3 10mm bolts. Be careful that the washers and
    rubber washers don't fall off and get lost. The bottom
    bolt (just above the oil filter element) is not easy to get at- there is a
    inspection hatch in the wheelarch liner that can be removed if you can't get
    your fingers on it from above.
    7. Locate the camshaft sensor just under the two timing gears. Undo the
    torque? bolt (8mm? star socket needed). Careful that it doesn't drop out
    into the timing belt like mine did!
    8. Carefully pull the camshaft sensor upwards by the electrical cable out
    through the hole in the top of the engine.
    9. Disconnect sensor from cable by pushing in the wire retaining clip on
    connector.

    As they always say replacement is the reverse of the above!
    To get the sensor out in the scrapyard access was restricted and I could
    only get the top bolt off the timing cover so I undid the timing gear wheels
    to get at the sensor.

    I did take as much of the cable as I could - it goes straight into the
    wiring loom behind the engine as me140 kindly pointed out. However I have
    decided not to splice it in just yet as so far all appears to be working OK.

    I also pinched the exhaust manifold cover shield off the Vectra. Since the
    1.8l Vectra did not have the exhaust gas recirculation nonsense I had to get
    the tin snips out and make a small cut-out on the LHS for the EGR pipe to
    fit, but with a bit of jiggery pokery it all fits and looks the job. The
    shield is fixed to the exhaust manifold with a torque bolt just like those
    used on the top- it had rusted away, but luckily there was just enough left
    to undo with the molegrips. No rattles at last.

    Next job a small hole in the exhaust front downpipe just where it joins the
    cat section by the spring joint - hoping Mr Firegum will fix that one for a
    bit.

    Whilst I was at it I found the crank sensor too - its just under the power
    steering pump and above the front engine mount - held in with one torque
    screw. Kind of expecting that that one will go wrong next week in
    sympathy....

    Al
     
    ARNK, Aug 7, 2005
    #12
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