Update on Vectra heater-With Pictures

Discussion in 'Vectra' started by Tony, Feb 24, 2008.

  1. Tony

    Tony Guest

    Hi all.

    Well the heater is sorted, and although it was a bit of a trial, it was
    nowhere near as bad as I feared.

    I cracked on with it saturday morning after a long study to the diagrams
    kindly supplied by OPEL PARTS GREECE. Many thanks guys. First thing was to
    remove the centre console. Slid the seats forewards to remove 2 screws at
    the rear (on the sides), then back to remove 2 more at the front, low down
    then 2 more further on higher up-all of this after removing small round
    blanking plates. Further into the footwell I also removed 2 more scews-1
    each side-and removed additional panels forewards of the centre console.
    Next was to lift up the panel under the handbrake (the one that gives access
    to the OBD socket) and unscrew another retaining screw. 2 more screws to
    remover the gear lever surround, containing the electric window switches.
    The leather gaitor pops off, but was left on the gear knob, while the
    surround was unpluged and removed. The handbrake gaitor was popped off the
    console, but left on the lever. After that, I lfted the console up and
    backwards to lever it out from the front. Wires to the cigarrette socket
    looked difficult to unplug and later refit, so they were left in place and
    the whole console tucked to one side out of the way. I then removed the
    ducting for the rear heating, which just pulled off, but was fiddley. This
    left me with this view.

    http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w147/WhiteTruckMan_photos/Heater/Image031.jpg

    note the removed ducting in the foreground. You can also see one of the
    holes in the floor that it fits in.

    Heres a closer view.

    http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w147/WhiteTruckMan_photos/Heater/Image030.jpg

    The gold coloured bar is the gear linkage, and just above it is the panel
    that needs to be removed to gain access to the core. No screws, just 6 clips
    that you have to be carefull not to break. Once you have undone the clips
    and removed the panel, this is what you may find.

    http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w147/WhiteTruckMan_photos/Heater/Image033.jpg

    http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w147/WhiteTruckMan_photos/Heater/Image032.jpg

    All that remains was to unfasten the pipes in the engine bay. these are
    quick release joints, but time had made them a little stiff. Press the tab,
    pull the collar back (away from the bulkhead) about 5mm, and the rubber pipe
    should just pull off. I found it better to twist first to break any stiction
    contact.

    After that the core just slid right out. It struggled the first few inches,
    so pushing the pipes sticking out of the bulkhead helped it on its way.

    Nest I had to find another one, soI did the rounds of the local breakers.
    Dont mention vectra A or B, as they dont know that an A is in fact a
    cavalier, just causes confusion. Mine was a non aircon model, and every one
    I looked at was aircon-I never knew there was so many aircon vectras around.
    2 breakers later I found one. Removed the pipes and it still had water in-a
    good sign. whipped it out and blew down it with a finger over the other pipe
    and it held pressure. Did it again without the finger and the durn thing was
    blocked. They tried to get me to buy it at a reduced price, but I walked
    away.

    Found another in the next yard, but after removing it I found it too was
    blown. Next time was the jackpot though. Tricky to get the pipes off under
    the bonnet as it was in the middle of a stack of 3 and I couldnt lift the
    bonnet all the way, but I managed. The core was a good one, and set me back
    £10. It fitted in ok and everything went back really easy, but when
    refitting the water pipes I had to be sure that the connectors went on the
    pipes all the way before I slid the collars foreward. Some lubrication with
    washing up liquid helped (dont use oil or grease). Heater works fine and the
    cooling system pressurises ok too.

    Here is another shot of the old core. on this and some of the previous shots
    you can see where it had blown, in the curved bits of pipe.

    http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w147/WhiteTruckMan_photos/Heater/Image034.jpg

    Sorry for the quality of the pics. they were taken with a phone camera, with
    no flash, but at least they are good enough to give a general idea.


    Only problem now is the radio. I left the interior light on and it flattened
    the battery, so I have to recode it. Its a CAR400, and yes, I do have the
    code. But the radio doesnt respond at all. The book says to turn the igntion
    on, press and hold the 'AS' button while turning the radio on, and the
    display should read 'code' and you enter the code. But the radio will not
    turn on at all, the display just reads 'program', and thats it. I'm going to
    take it for a long drive today to charge the battery, and see if the radio
    dries out, as I fear it may have got water in it-water got all over the
    place. at one point as I was nursing it home even the speedo stopped
    working. Thats ok now though.


    Any comments, thoughts or questions?
     
    Tony, Feb 24, 2008
    #1
  2. Tony

    kellerman Guest

    You are one brave bunny!
    Last job I did like that was on a old, 1980's Fiesta and that was a
    complete bas***d. It had to come out from underneath and behind the
    dash. Cue taking out a seat and lying on ones back for hours!
    The only coment I would make is - how much does a new heater rad cost?
    Might it have been better to fit a new one?

    On the radio front try taking it out, taking the covers off and wash it
    in distilled water, then dry it by washing it in IPA (propan-1-ol(SP)
    aka isopol alchohol). Leave to dry off in a well ventilated area.
    Works with mobile phones provided they havn't been wet too long and
    havn't been in salt water or other "contaminated" water i.e. dropped
    down the loo . . . . . . . . !
    Dave
     
    kellerman, Feb 24, 2008
    #2
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.