Omega brakes

Discussion in 'Omega' started by Gary Millar, Jan 9, 2005.

  1. Gary Millar

    Gary Millar Guest

    My omega still momentarily pulls to the drivers side when lightly applying
    the brakes. This has been going on for a while now and even after bleeding
    them fitting front new callipers and new hoses its still the same. After the
    mot test where the rollers say all is well the mechanic says there is a
    definate sensation on a road test of pulling to the right.
    The strange thing is that this only happens under light braking.
    If you brake hard it stops in a straight line.
    If you brake with your hands of the wheel it bakes in a straight line.
    If you brake lightly with your hands off the wheel it stops in a straight
    line but you can see the steering wheel move momentarily to the left.
    But if you brake lightly while holding the wheel you can feel the car
    pulling to the right before it brakes in a straight line.
    By the wat at the mot the suspension bushes were all passed as OK and the
    car was fully 4 wheel aligned 18 month ago and as im the only driver i know
    there has been no kerbing etc.
     
    Gary Millar, Jan 9, 2005
    #1
  2. Gary Millar

    Pete M Guest

    In
    Tyre pressures?
    Rear brake binding?
    tracking?
    weak front shocks?

    18 months is a long long time after tracking adjustment.


    --
    Pete M

    Mercedes 260E
    Ford Capri (ressurection started)
    "Never moon a werewolf"

    COSOC #5
    Scouse Git extraordinaire. Liverpool, Great Britain
     
    Pete M, Jan 9, 2005
    #2
  3. Gary Millar

    Gary Millar Guest

    Not rear brakes as it def pulls at front only
    tyre press ok
    trackings been checked
    shocks just passed mot
    I might get all alingnment checked again because i did wonder if there might
    be stagger in the front wheel set up
     
    Gary Millar, Jan 9, 2005
    #3
  4. Gary Millar

    Mad Mechanic Guest

    have your brakes tested on a brake tested

    john

     
    Mad Mechanic, Jan 9, 2005
    #4
  5. Gary Millar

    Gary Millar Guest

    Has been done on rolling road and shows up fine this leads me to think that
    suspension bushes must be flexing or joints moving but which ones as they
    all seem tight and they all passed mot. It costs a fortune to replace them
    all !!!
     
    Gary Millar, Jan 9, 2005
    #5
  6. Gary Millar

    Cicero Guest

    ================
    Try swapping the front wheels over. It's possible that you've got a minor
    buckle or other fault in one wheel which doesn't show up during tracking.
    This is a simple check and if it shows no difference in behaviour at least
    it won't cost anything to do.

    I would think that if you had a worn bush somewhere in the suspension /
    steering it would be more likely to produce an effect during heavy rather
    than light breaking.

    Although you said that the effect is felt at the front it's still possible
    that there's a slight imbalance in the rear brakes. I recently fitted new
    rear linings to my car (self adjusting brakes) and there was a very definite
    sideways pull felt at the steering until the self adjusting mechanism sorted
    itself out. Try checking your rear brake adjustment with both wheels off the
    ground together and adjust if necessary. If they're self-adjusting try
    re-setting the self adjusters to give them a fresh start. One of them may be
    siezed.

    Cic.
     
    Cicero, Jan 9, 2005
    #6
  7. Gary Millar

    Gary Millar Guest

    I could try changing the front wheels round although the tyres are
    directional and mat cause a different sensation
     
    Gary Millar, Jan 9, 2005
    #7
  8. Gary Millar

    Cicero Guest


    <snipped>
    ===============
    A temporary swap would still be worth a try to see if it shows up any fault.
    A few short stop / start tests would show up any discrepancy (if any) and
    you can immediately change back to ensure that your tyres are safe. You
    might also do the same with the rear wheels to see if anything changes. It's
    a process of trial and error really - tedious and frustrating but worthwhile
    when you find the solution.

    Cic.
     
    Cicero, Jan 9, 2005
    #8
  9. Gary Millar

    Gary Millar Guest

    Yep trial and error as you say i'll try some more next weekend but ant
    advice from any one would be usefull
     
    Gary Millar, Jan 9, 2005
    #9
  10. Gary Millar

    Taz Guest


    Try changing front to back then
     
    Taz, Jan 9, 2005
    #10
  11. Gary Millar

    Mike Guest

    Is this light pullingonly first thing in the morning (or when the car is
    cold if you happen to work nights...)?

    Although tricky to do, and requiring both luck and skill, from a cold start
    try to drive 2-3 miles without much using the brakes, GENTLY pull over and
    then carefully feel the wheels to see if one feels noticeably warmer than
    the other. (but not necessarily hot). next, run up to speed-30mph is ok-then
    gently brake almost to a stop. Take your foot off the pedal and let the car
    come to rest naturally on level ground. does the car stop smoothly, or does
    it give a (very) minor lurch as it comes to a stop?

    Based on other postings in this thread, my gut feeling would be you have a
    brake caliper sticking ever so slightly. it doesnt pull under heavy braking
    so I dont think its a bad problem. Although front or back binding can cause
    pulling, IMHO for rear brakes to bind bad enough to start pulling, you would
    start noticing bad smells from the car. If you dont know the smell of
    burning brakes, then good for you! Although you never forget the smell, its
    not on the list of 50 things to do/smell before you die. I dont know what
    kind of calipers you have there, but it was the bane of my life on many old
    bikes of mine with a floating caliper front brakes, where you only have a
    piston on one side and it pulls the back side of the caliper against the
    disc. Kinda like a 'G' clamp. only unlike drum brakes there isnt actually
    any force available to retract the caliper. sure, the withdrawal of the
    master cylender piston when you take your foot of the pedal will (should!)
    marginally withdraw the slave pistons at all 4 wheels, but if one is
    sticking just slightly then it will tend to withdraw the other three just
    that little bit more. Also, the caliper might not be floating free from the
    back end, with the same results. If you dont have a floating caliper, ie you
    have pistons pushing the pads on both sides of the disc then I would look to
    see if a pad is stuck in slight contact with the disc. simply remove (Are
    you reading this Mr Haynes? I once had a good laugh when I read that in one
    of your books!) the pads, clean the edges up in an appropriate manner untill
    they are smooth and clean and also the corresponding area of the caliper, so
    the pads move smoothly. replace with just a lick of grease on the metal
    edges of the pad (for chrissakes make sure you use the proper high melting
    point stuff for the job, not the first pot that comes to hand) then put back
    together and road test. before you do, remember that brake dust can be
    dangerous to your health, so dont go sniffing it and dont forget to tighten
    ALL your wheelnuts.

    Sorry for going on at some length, especially if this is all old stuff to
    you, but remember that other people read these posts and (hopefully) learn
    from them.

    Cheers

    Mike

    BTW, forgot to add that if you have one pad noticeably thinner than the rest
    then odds are thats the culprit. if the problem turns out to be a sticking
    piston then you might have to spend some wonga. But get back to us first.
     
    Mike, Jan 9, 2005
    #11
  12. Gary Millar

    Cicero Guest

    ===============
    One minor amendment to the above suggestions from 'Mike'. The rear brake
    need not be 'binding' to cause a pull. One rear brake may be adjusted very
    slightly more closely than the other but still not in permanent contact with
    the drum. In this case one brake would 'bite' slightly before the other thus
    producing a pull which would be felt under gentle braking but would probably
    be masked under heavier braking.

    Cic.
     
    Cicero, Jan 9, 2005
    #12
  13. Gary Millar

    Mike Guest

    Good point, And I agree completely, but rears dragging have to be a lot
    worse than fronts to produce noticeable effects. Do omegas have rear drums?
    By comparison the rear brake/handbrake on my old vectra looks like it was
    dreamed up by the apprentice on a monday morning just after a trip to the
    lav with a copy of last weeks sport. Dunno what he was thinking about, but
    its a right **** of a design.

    Mike
     
    Mike, Jan 9, 2005
    #13
  14. Gary Millar

    Gary Millar Guest

    Thanks for all the info lads and it all makes sense and has been done before
    i posted this. Ive found a guy on the cavweb forum who has posted a problem
    almost exactly to the letter the same as this one matbe he can help>if i
    find the problem i'll let you all know
     
    Gary Millar, Jan 9, 2005
    #14
  15. Gary Millar

    Pete M Guest

    In
    No probs, but learn to snip, and don't top post ;-)


    --
    Pete M

    Mercedes 260E
    Ford Capri (ressurection started)
    "Never moon a werewolf"

    COSOC #5
    Scouse Git extraordinaire. Liverpool, Great Britain
     
    Pete M, Jan 9, 2005
    #15
  16. Gary Millar

    Will Reeve Guest

    They have both rear drums and rear discs, best of both worlds :) The drum
    bit is handbrake only. I can only assume the reason is to stop the Citroen
    problem of when the discs cool down the car rolls away and crashes (for
    those people who don't bother to keep the car in gear or P when
    stationary!). I've had a seized piston on a rear disc which caused the other
    sides pad to wear down very quickly indeed!

    Will
     
    Will Reeve, Jan 10, 2005
    #16
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