LPG Conversion on Cavalier

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Steve Graham, Mar 6, 2005.

  1. Steve Graham

    Steve Graham Guest

    Yes its me again ....

    The Cavalier with the heater matrix problem .... well, I want to consider
    something else as well

    I drive almost 3000 miles a month in the car, and I want to think about LPG
    conversion.

    Mk 3 1.8i Single Point Injection, "L" Reg
    The car is a saloon, not a hatchback so can house the tank at the back of
    the boot.

    Can anybody tell me how much this is liable to cost, and anybody know who
    can tackle such a job.

    I live in Glasgow (ish) area, so anywhere near (ish) me would be good :)
     
    Steve Graham, Mar 6, 2005
    #1
  2. Steve Graham

    me140 Guest

    Unless you are going to keep the car for ages are you going to get your
    money's worth?
    I am sure there are plenty of places you can find on the internet to give
    you a quote but try to speak to one of their customers to make sure they do
    a "proper" job - seen some scary add on fitted kits. Another option is buy
    a car with it factory fitted - least you know it will do what it should.
     
    me140, Mar 6, 2005
    #2
  3. Steve Graham

    airsmoothed Guest

    A quick Google suggests likely conversion costs of £1k - £1.5K. I
    suspect it would be more cost effective to swap the car for the 1.7
    diesel version, or an older pre-catalytic petrol one. Until recently I
    was doing 35K per year in my 90H 1.8 petrol Cav Mk3 and averaging 45
    mpg.
     
    airsmoothed, Mar 8, 2005
    #3
  4. Steve Graham

    Mike Guest

    Ask yourself how much money you spend on fuel per week. if its over about
    £50-£60 then probably worthit. I had it done to a range rover 3.5 1986
    manual a few years back. cost 1k, but paid for itself in 10 months.
    currently run a 4.0 litre (non rangey) which I bought already gassed, works
    ok.

    quality of installers out there is very variable, so shop around.

    if you buy a motor already converted, make sure you get a certificate of
    conformity (basically a piece of paper with companys name, installers name,
    serial number of rank and sometimes other components like the vapouriser.
    without one, insurance companies might get a bit iffy, but you shoudnt have
    any bother with lpg as long as you declare it. never had any premium rises
    over it.

    you also need an engine and ignition system in good nick, as gas will find
    any weaknesses. if it breathes much, then forget it! if your HT is dodgy
    then replace the lot with quality gear.

    Also check out prices of gas. avoid garages. usual prices are @ 40p litre.
    look for bottled gas suppliers. most sell lpg as well (also labelled
    autogas). I use one on Bury, lancs at 34p/litre. downside is limited opening
    hours, but at those prices, I just fill up. you tend not to bother with just
    putting a tenner in to keep you going.

    I have heard that some omega V6's do not take well to gas (dunno why) and my
    local installer did a 1.8 vectra old style once and swore never again, but
    would not come up with why.

    and finally, if you do have one done, get the biggest tank that will fit.
    dont get a doughnut shaped tank that fits in the spare wheel well. you loose
    the spare and they are bloody expensive compared to a cylender. and dont
    have the filler at the back. (think about rear end shunts). get it near the
    existing filler.

    hope some of this drivel helps.

    Mike
     
    Mike, Mar 9, 2005
    #4
  5. Steve Graham

    Steve Graham Guest

    Yeah Mike thanks

    I do spend roughly £50 per week on fuel - car does circa 3K miles per month.
    This is why I was considering the change.

    Shall do my homework now and see who is best, although Im thinking maybe
    buying a pre done car might be better.

    The only niggle I have is - "if its so good why did they get rid of it".

    Thanks again

    Steve
     
    Steve Graham, Mar 9, 2005
    #5
  6. Steve Graham

    airsmoothed Guest

    If you are spending 50 quid a week to cover 750 miles then that's
    around 57 mpg??? ( assuming £3.80 a gallon) That can't be right; I
    would expect about 42 mpg out of your 1.8i.

    So, assuming 42 mpg that's 275 quid per month on petrol. With an lpg
    conversion the economy will drop a bit, I am led to believe, so let's
    say 40 mpg. Assuming 35p per litre for LPG then you fuel bill will drop
    to 125 quid. SO 150 quid per month saving, best case. So the system
    should pay for itself in about a year, by my calculations.
     
    airsmoothed, Mar 9, 2005
    #6
  7. Steve Graham

    Steve Graham Guest

    Hehehe

    so all i need to do is find someone to fund my LPG conversion .......
    [/QUOTE][/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
    If you are spending 50 quid a week to cover 750 miles then that's
    around 57 mpg??? ( assuming £3.80 a gallon) That can't be right; I
    would expect about 42 mpg out of your 1.8i.

    So, assuming 42 mpg that's 275 quid per month on petrol. With an lpg
    conversion the economy will drop a bit, I am led to believe, so let's
    say 40 mpg. Assuming 35p per litre for LPG then you fuel bill will drop
    to 125 quid. SO 150 quid per month saving, best case. So the system
    should pay for itself in about a year, by my calculations.
     
    Steve Graham, Mar 9, 2005
    #7
  8. Steve Graham

    Mike Guest

    Ok, what I'm about to say will bore some people. If you arent interested in
    lpg, stop reading now.

    LPG, aka propane (UN number 1978), also comes in bottles. in fact, they are
    the red ones you see powering temporary roadworks sign illuminations usually
    on motorways. they are also to be found strapped to the back of a lot of
    fork lift trucks. reason for this is that they can power a piece of
    machinery indoors. the exhaust is non toxic. however, it is an asphyxiant,
    so beware!

    Note: the stuff you see in blue bottles is butane. it is technically LPG,
    the working definition of which is a (hydrocarbon) gas that can be liquified
    with a modest amount of compression, but no refrigeration. butane-the stuff
    lighters run on-contains less energy per kg than propane, hence propanes
    choice as a fuel. even so, (liquid) propane contains less energy than the
    same mass of petrol, which is -partly- why it will not sent your wheeled
    pride and joy as far as a gallon of the good stuff. (also partly explains
    diesels economy, as a litre of diesel contains more energy than a similar
    amount of petrol. yes, I know theres more to it than that, but this is a
    simplified explanation) you can also expect a mild drop off in performance,
    but nothing too dramatic. expect 10-15 mph drop off the top speed.

    It also burns slower than petrol. Slower here is a relative term. propane
    will still produce a healthy bang!!! because it takes longer for the flame
    front to travel the full expance of the cylinder, the spark has to fire a
    little earlier. figure 10-12 degrees earlier than the settings for petrol.
    you can get little boxes that switch the timing automatically when the
    system changes from one fuel to another. costs vary.

    propane also burns hotter than petrol. not so you would notice, but it will
    nicely burn off any carbon deposits in the combustion chmber area. this can
    also mean around valve seats, uncovering hidden problems. hotter
    temperatures also mean its a good idea to slightly shorten the intervals
    between oil changes.

    The electrical resistance across the spark plug gap is greater with a
    propane/air mix than with a petrol/air mix. this means that your ignition
    system has to work harder to fire that plug. The practical implications of
    this are that the spark will find the easiest way out. if you have an old,
    damp or even just oily set of leads, then at some point they will be bunched
    up and touching. this is a paticular problem around the distributor of V8's!
    this means that the spark will jump from one lead to another and fire the
    wrong plug at the wrong time. especially if the gaps are a bit uneven. if
    you are lucky, this will result in a missing cylinder. if you are unlucky,
    it will fire a plug that is in the middle of an induction stroke, and the
    flame front will travel backwards out of the engine. you wouldnt believe
    what this will do to an air flow meter!. and if you happen to have your head
    under the bonnet investigating when a 'mate' decides to gun it a bit to see
    if he can clear it, then I guarentee that this will loosen any earwax you
    may have!

    I'm not trying to frighten you or put you off, but you need to know that it
    isnt all plain sailing. usually you find out the above details only after
    you have parted with lots of wonga. I would advise getting to know some
    people-at least more than 1- and ask their experinces.

    Mike

    Oh, BTW, LPG cars are currently (I believe) exempt from comrade Kens
    congestion charge.
     
    Mike, Mar 10, 2005
    #8
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